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In many cases the visual differences from one classification to the next
are so small they may be indiscernible to the naked eye. Science has produced
sophisticated machinery that can measure every phpect of a diamond’s
proportions. It is this precision that allows such strict standards to be defined.
These guidelines give you the ability to not only make a selection regarding cut
but to understand the underlying science upon which it is based. In any case a
brilliant and scintillating diamond is ultimately the goal.
The Lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. In order to
classify each diamond with an overall cut grade the lowest assigned grade for any
individual characteristic is always used. For example: If the table percentage falls
within Ideal yet the depth percentage is in the Very Good range, the diamond is
classified as Very Good.
The proportions are not the same for every shape. Many of the
diamond shapes require their own guidelines in order to achieve maximum beauty. Due to
the mathematical differences inherent in different shapes, the table and depth
guidelines are formulated to maximize fire and brilliance. Although the numbers may be
different, the goal is the same: a magnificent display that highlights the
individuality and character of each shape.
Girdle
The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond. It usually has a frosted appearance. Many
diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or even a faceted girdle. This
characteristic does not affect the value of a diamond and is often more a reflection
the diamond cutter's preference. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness. Girdle
size is generally defined as either Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium,
Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. The girdle can
also be described as a range of these terms such as Thin to Thick. Avoid the two
Extremes. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a girdle that is neither Extremely
Thin nor Extremely Thick.
Culet
The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases this point actually has a
very small facet. The culet is referred to in terms that relate to the presence or size
of this facet. The culet is generally graded as None or Pointed, Very
Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, and Extremely
Large. Smaller is more desirable.
Polish
This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the facets, or flat
surfaces. Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground and polished, not chipped
away, until they reach their final form. Each facet should be carefully fashioned by
the diamond cutter to shine and be free from polishing imperfections. The polish of a
diamond is generally defined as either Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or
Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a polishing grade of
Good or above.
Symmetry
This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the facets, or flat
surfaces. Each facet should be carefully positioned by the diamond cutter in proper
proportion and relationship to the other facets. The alignment of each facet should be
sharp and precise; improperly joined facet junctions can make a diamond appear uneven.
The symmetry of a diamond is generally defined as either Poor, Fair, Good, Very
Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a symmetry
grade of Good or above.
Fluoresence
This characteristic refers to the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under
ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a distinctive
glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various shades, blue
is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its
intensity as either None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Most
of the time fluorescence isn't an issue unless the intensity is Strong or Very
Strong. In the very high colors D, E, and F, Strong fluorescence is considered less
desirable. Ironically, in slightly lower colors of J and below, Strong fluorescence is
desirable.
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